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Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage (四国遍路) |
 
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Creativefoto LLC 2302 Upham St Madison, Wisconsin 53704 (608) 219-4408 |
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March 1, 2018 is the start date for my Shikoku 88-Temple pilgrimage. In the early 1990's I made multiple trips to Japan on business. However, it has been nearly 25 years since my last trip to Japan and this will be my first to the island of Shikoku. In his 1983 book “Japanese Pilgrimage” Oliver Statler states: "...this pilgrimage has no goal in the usual sense, no holy of holies to which one journeys and, after celebration in worship, returns home. This pilgrimage is essentially a circle: a circle has no beginning and no end. And so, it is not at all important where one begins. What is important is that one go all the way around and return to one's starting point. One must close the circle."
Pilgrims who walk the journey are referred to as Ohenro san, "お遍路さん". The pilgrimage was established over 1000 years ago and is approximately 1200km (750 miles). Ohenro's visit temples founded or restored by the revered monk and scholar Kūkai, better known by his posthumous title Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師). Kūkai's many achievements include: creating the 47 symbol kana system of writing, bringing the tantric teachings of Esoteric Buddhism from China to Japan, developing this form of Buddhism into the uniquely Japanese Shingon sect also known in Japan as Mikkyô, meaning "secret teaching", and founding Shingon's headquarters on Mount Koya near Osaka. He remains a popular folk hero in Japan. Some believe that Kūkai is merely sleeping in his tomb on Mt. Koya and will rise up again someday. There are several other Japanese Buddhist sects besides Shingon. These include:, Tendai, Pure Land, Nichiren, and Zen. In addition, many Japanese also practice the traditional religion of Shintoism. While Zen Buddhism may be the most recognizable sect by Westerners, the Shikoku pilgrimage is one of Shingon. Shingon Buddhism teaches that the pure truth cannot be expressed in words but only through art. Known for its rich ceremonies, Shingon shares many esoteric elements similar to Tibetan Buddhism. Esoteric Buddhism is a means to realize enlightenment by experiencing oneself as an enlightened being. The experience is enabled through esoteric practices involving meditation, visualization, chanting and ritual. In Shingon, practices engage body, speech, and mind to help one experience Buddha-nature. The pilgrim's journey through the four prefectures of Shikoku (Tokushima, Kōchi, Ehime, and Kagawa) is likened to a symbolic path to enlightenment, with temples 1–23 representing the idea of awakening, 24–39 austerity and discipline, 40–65 attaining enlightenment, and 66–88 entering nirvana. While the temples are numbered 1-88, there are no rules as to which temple to start from or in what order the temples are visited. Each year hundreds of thousands of people visit some or all of the 88 temples. Most of these people travel by tour bus or car. A very small number of people attempt to complete the entire pilgrimage in one trip walking. Doing so is known as Toshiuchi "通し打ち". For those who walk counterclockwise it is referred to as Gyakuuchi (逆打ち). I intend to start at Ryōzenji "霊山寺" (temple #1) and circumnavigate Shikoku in a clockwise direction (Junuchi "順打ち") until I reach each temple and return to Ryōzenji to complete the circle. Once the circle has been completed I will travel to Mt. Koya on the Kii Peninsula of the main island of Honshu to pay my respects to the founder of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, the great monk Kūkai “空海”. Pilgrims can be identified along the route by their outfit. Most wear some or all of the following: a sedge hat (Sugegasa “菅笠”), white shirt (Byakue “白衣”), White Pants (Ohenro Zubon “お遍路ズボン”), stole (Wagesa “輪架娑”), and rosary beads (Juzu “念珠”). In addition, many wear a shoulder bag (Zudabukuro “さんや袋”) to carry their sutra booklet, stamp book (Noukyocho “納経帳 “), name-slips, incense, and candles. A wooden staff (Kongozue “金剛杖”) completes the ensemble. On much of the equipment are the words “Dogyo Ninin” (We Two Pilgrims Together). It is said that the pilgrim never walks alone because he has Kūkai at his side. Upon arriving at each temple, the pilgrim carries out a prayer ritual and collects a stamp in his or her Noukyocho for a small fee. Most pilgrims stay in hotels or other paid lodging such as Minshuku “民宿” (family run B&B) or Ryokan “旅館” (Japanese style Inn). However, for the more adventurous (me included) there are free lodgings for pilgrims known as Tsūyadō "通夜堂" provided by some temples, Zenninyado "善人宿" which are free lodgings in the home of a Shikoku resident, roadside station called Michi no Eki "道の駅", henro goya "遍路小屋・へんろ小屋" which are rest huts built along the route for pilgrims to use, and finally tent camping. Amongst all the new experiences I anticipate during my journey, the act of osettai is near the top. Osettai is the action of giving of food, money, and other gifts to pilgrims. In return the pilgrim offers a name-slip (Osame fuda). The name slip is also placed in a box outside the main hall and daishi hall at each temple, as well as given to other pilgrims one encounters. The name slips are colored to indicate the number of times the pilgrim has completed the 88-temple pilgrimage. I will be using white name slips since this is my first journey. On a pilgrims fifth journey they may use green name slips, red are used after 7 journeys, bronze after 25 and gold after 50. After 100 journeys, the pilgrim may use a name slip that is made from woven fabric and called nishiki. My family and friends have all been encouraging of my plans. But they all want to know why I am doing this pilgrimage. I am not a Buddhist (at least not yet), I have never undertaken this type of adventure before (my longest trek camping was 3 days on North Manitou Island in Michigan), and I don't speak Japanese. My best answer to their question of "why?" is that I have found some inner calling that is compelling me to go. Similar to the calling I had 22 years ago to leave my engineering career to become a high school math teacher, this journey is beckoning me to come. I look forward to learning more about Shingon Buddhism, meeting new friends on the path, and discovering more about myself. Pilgrims who walk the journey are referred to as Ohenro san , "お遍路さん". While the temples are numbered 1-88, there are no rules as to which temple to start from or in what order the temples are visited. Each year hundreds of thousands of people visit some or all of the 88 temples. Most of these people travel by tour bus or car. A very small number of people attempt to complete the entire pilgrimage in one trip walking. Doing so is known as Toshiuchi "通し打ち". For those who Pilgrims who walk the journey are referred to as Ohenro san , "お遍路さん". While the temples are numbered 1-88, there are no rules as to which temple to start from or in what order the temples are visited. Each year hundreds of thousands of people visit some or all of the 88 temples. Most of these people travel by tour bus or car. A very small number of people attempt to complete the entire pilgrimage in one trip walking. Doing so is known as Toshiuchi "通し打ち". For those who walk counterclockwise it is referred to as Gyakuuchi "逆打ち". I intend to start at Ryōzenji "霊山寺" (temple #1) and circumnavigate Shikoku by Junuchi "順打ち" (in a clockwise direction) until I reach each temple and return to Ryōzenji to complete the circle. Once the cirle has been completed I will travel to Mt. Koya on the Kii Peninsula of the main island of Honshu to pay my respects to the founder of Shingon in Japan, the great monk Kūkai (空海). Most pilgrims stay in hotels or other paid lodging such as Minshuku "民宿" or Ryokan "旅館". However, for the more adventurous (me included) there are free lodgings for pilgrims known as Tsūyadō "通夜堂" provided by some temples, Zenninyado "善人宿" which are free lodgings in the home of a Shikoku resident, roadside stations called Michi no Eki "道の駅", henro goya "遍路小屋・へんろ小屋" which are rest huts built along the route for pilgrims to use, and finally tent camping. The pilgrimage was established over 1000 years ago and is approximately 1200km (750 miles). Ohenro's visit temples founded or restored by the revered monk and scholar Kūkai, better known by his posthumous title Kōbō Daishi (弘法大師). Kūkai's many achievements include: creating the 47-symbol kana system of writing, bringing the tantric teachings of esoteric Buddhism from China to Japan, developing this form of Buddhism into the uniquely Japanese Shingon sect, and founding Shingon's headquarters on Mount Koya. To this day, Kūkai remains a popular folk hero in Japan. There are some who believe that Kūkai is merely sleeping in his tomb on Mt. Koya and will rise up again someday. There are several Japanese Buddhist sects including: Shingon, Tendai, Pure Land, Nichiren, and Zen. In addition, many Japaneese also practice the traditional religion of Shintoism. While Zen Buddhism may be the most recognizable sect by Westerners, the Shikoku pilgrimage is one of Shingon. Shingon is also known in Japanese as Mikkyô, meaning "secret teaching". Shingon Buddhism teaches that the pure truth cannot be expressed in words but only through art. Known for its rich ceremonies, Shingon shares many esoteric elements similar to Tibetan Buddhism. Esoteric Buddhism is a means to realize enlightenment by experiencing oneself as an enlightened being. The experience is enabled through esoteric practices involving meditation, visualization, chanting and ritual. In Shingon, practices engage body, speech and mind to help one experience Buddha-nature. The pilgrim's journey through the four prefectures of Shikoku (Tokushima, Kōchi, Ehime, and Kagawa) is likened to a symbolic path to enlightenment, with temples 1–23 representing the idea of awakening, 24–39 austerity and discipline, 40–65 attaining enlightenment, and 66–88 entering nirvana.
Similar to the skills I honed in the darkroom, I have Similar to the skills I honed in the darkroom, I have Similar to the skills I honed in the darkroom, I have become adept at enhancing as well as modifying images digitally. I also spend considerable time restoring old photographs. All of my images (except for NFL photos) are for sale in a variety of sizes. I can custom print all images on acid free archival papers for images which will truly last a lifetime or you can order prints direct from a photo lab. I specialize in sports photography but also shoot portraits, concerts, and other events. I shoot many of the local high school events as well as college and professional sports. I shoot for several clients covering various athletic events such as the Milwaukee Brewers, Wisconsin Badgers, NASCAR, Chicago Mustang, Madison Marathon, Green Bay Bellin Half Marathon, Tough Mudder, and the Milwaukee Dirty Girl Obstacle Race. I have won several prizes for my images including the Grand Prize in Vail Resorts Snow to Sand Photo Contest. At left is my Grand Prize winning photograph of the south end of Lake Tahoe. I shoot with only Canon equipment. My main camera is the 1DX Mark II with a 1DX and 5D Mark IV for backups. I have a variety of lenses including: EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, and EF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS II USM. I also use a pair of Canon 600 EX-RT Speedlights, Gitzo 6X Carbon Fiber Monopod, Manfrotto tripod, Manfrotto light stand, and various other equipment. Similar to the skills I honed in the darkroom, I have become adept at enhancing as well as modifying images digitally. I also spend considerable time restoring old photographs. All of my images (except for NFL photos) are for sale in a variety of sizes. I can custom print all images on acid free archival papers for images which will truly last a lifetime or you can order prints direct from a photo lab. e been shooting photographs since I got my first camera at age 5. My very first image of my father in 1963 is shown below. I spent many years shooting and processing black and white images but have now gone almost entirely digital. I specialize in sports photography but also shoot portraits, concerts, and other events. I shoot many of the local high school events as well as college and professional sports. I shoot for several clients covering various athletic events such as the Milwaukee Brewers, Wisconsin Badgers, NASCAR, Chicago Mustang, Madison Marathon, Green Bay Bellin Half Marathon, Tough Mudder, and the Milwaukee Dirty Girl Obstacle Race. I have won several prizes for my images including the Grand Prize in Vail Resorts Snow to Sand Photo Contest. At left is my Grand Prize winning photograph of the south end of Lake Tahoe. I shoot with only Canon equipment. My main camera is the 1DX Mark II with a 1DX and 5D Mark IV for backups. I have a variety of lenses including: EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, and EF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS II USM. I also use a pair of Canon 600 EX-RT Speedlights, Gitzo 6X Carbon Fiber Monopod, Manfrotto tripod, Manfrotto light stand, and various other equipment. Similar to the skills I honed in the darkroom, I have become adept at enhancing as well as modifying images digitally. I also spend considerable time restoring old photographs. All of my images (except for NFL photos) are for sale in a variety of sizes. I can custom print all images on acid free archival papers for images which will truly last a lifetime or you can order prints direct from a photo lab. I specialize in sports photography but also shoot portraits, concerts, and other events. I shoot many of the local high school events as well as college and professional sports. I shoot for several clients covering various athletic events such as the Milwaukee Brewers, Wisconsin Badgers, NASCAR, Chicago Mustang, Madison Marathon, Green Bay Bellin Half Marathon, Tough Mudder, and the Milwaukee Dirty Girl Obstacle Race. I have won several prizes for my images including the Grand Prize in Vail Resorts Snow to Sand Photo Contest. At left is my Grand Prize winning photograph of the south end of Lake Tahoe. I shoot with only Canon equipment. My main camera is the 1DX Mark II with a 1DX and 5D Mark IV for backups. I have a variety of lenses including: EF 400mm f/2.8L IS II USM, EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM, and EF 24-70mm f/2.8L IS II USM. I also use a pair of Canon 600 EX-RT Speedlights, Gitzo 6X Carbon Fiber Monopod, Manfrotto tripod, Manfrotto light stand, and various other equipment. Similar to the skills I honed in the darkroom, I have become adept at enhancing as well as modifying images digitally. I also spend considerable time restoring old photographs. All of my images (except for NFL photos) are for sale in a variety of sizes. I can custom print all images on acid free archival papers for images which will truly last a lifetime or you can order prints direct from a photo lab. e been shooting photographs since I got my first camera at age 5. My very first image of my father in 1963 is shown below. I spent many years shooting and processing black and white images but have now gone almost entirely digital. I specialize in sports photography but also shoot portraits, concerts, and other events. I shoot many of the local high school events as well as college and professional sports. I shoot for several clients covering various athletic events such as the Milwaukee Brewers, Wisconsin Badgers, NASCAR, Chicago Mustang, Madison Marathon, Green Bay Bellin Half Marathon, Tough Mudder, and the Milwaukee Dirty Girl Obstacle Race. I have won several prizes for my images including the Grand Prize in Vail Resorts Snow to Sand Photo Contest. At left is my Grand Prize winning photograph of the south end of Lake Tahoe. |
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